It seems fitting with to talk about pearls in the month where we consume more oysters than any other thanks to Valentines Day.

Pearl jewellery seems to be having an extended fashion moment! The pearl trend has lasted several seasons and doesn’t seem to be waning in popularity from designer use to customer level, and its a gemstone that is without a best seller at The Wearer

Chunky, baroque pearls and unusual shaped fancy pearls in particular are being used in a more contemporary way and are hugely popular for modern bridal looks…. or glamorous party nights in the not too distant future.

For me, it’s the process of taking something with very traditional connotations and seeing it transformed into something more updated and contemporary like these pieces from Niza Huang.

Pearls have been ALL OVER the catwalks in recent weeks. Just check out Lila Moss in head to toe pearl embellishment for Fendi (that earcuff!!…go take a look, seriously 🖤) or Simone Rocha who has had a longterm relationship with pearls stepping it up with the ‘IT’ bag of last season (not that we had anywhere to show it off!); a giant pearl clutch.

Classed as a gemstone, the beauty of pearls lies in their organic nature and timeless appeal.Sometimes considered old fashioned and the kind of jewellery your grandma might wear!? In reality though, they have never been out of the fashion limelight.

Loved for their iridescent lustre they have been worn and loved by Cleopatra to Kate Moss and every icon of style and power in between.

Jackie Kennedy once said “Pearls are always appropriate” and they have been always been the mainstay of the powerful elite. Think Coco Chanel, Maggie Thatcher, The Queen.

Pearls were the accessory of choice at the presidential inauguration last month and more than 430,000 people pledged to wear pearls on Jan 20th as part of a Facebook group called: “wear pearls on Jan 20 2021”. Kamala Harris frequently wears her pearls as a statement, a nod to her high school sorority. Because of this, and the fact that Harris is almost always seen wearing pearls, they were. being worn largely to represent sisterhood and female solidarity.

Thankfully though pearls aren’t limited to the girls and as a sign to the broader culture pushing against gender norms celebs like Harry Styles and Marc Jacobs show that pearls are anything but traditional.

Kojey Radical in our Capsule Eleven Evil Eye Pearl Necklace

Pearls are usually associated with oysters but forget about expecting to stumble across one with your oysters and champers this valentines day!

Depending on their shape, size, colour, texture they are also grown in snails, conch, clams and, more likely, mussels and can take anything from 6 months to 5 years to form.

In nature the pearl formation is a response to getting an irritant caught inside the mollusc but farmed pearls are sewn with a ‘seed’ of mother of pearl to start the process. In order to protect its soft inside the mollusc will slowly secrete a nacre to cover the seed in layer upon layer of pearlescent protection to create the final product. Like any gemstone, most pearls will go through a finishing process to enhance its lustre or colour and make it easier to work with. Heating, polishing, dyeing, gemstones and pearls are rarely left in their natural state.

BUT ARE THEY ETHICAL?

Sadly natural pearls are extremely rare now thanks to human demand. Sound like a familiar scenario?

Over the course of around 150 years natural salt water pearls were massively over fished and natural pearl beds have all but been lost for good. The consequence of this was that natural freshwater pearls met the same fate. Once seen as the poorer cousin of the saltwater pearl they became very popular in Art Nouveau jewellery and have now all but disappeared.

These days, the real pearls you see used in contemporary fashion and jewellery are all cultured

There are a few plus points to farmed or cultured pearls though. Unlike mining for mineral gems the process doesn’t require ripping holes in the earth. They are also organic and biodegradable. With an abundance of affordable real farmed pearls available there is really far less excuse for buying imitations, even in costume jewellery.

There is also a lot to be said for the way they are cultivated. Growing them in baskets can be good for the eco system as the ‘oysters’ or mussels naturally filter the water and remove nitrogen and heavy metals whilst also providing food for certain types of fish. They also provide work for local communities.

But one last thing to consider. Pearl cultivators will insist that molluscs don’t have a nervous system and therefore do not feel pain like we do but bottom line is, If you’re a vegan, pearls aren’t for you!

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